Archives For trek

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The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

October 23, 2012 — Leave a comment

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The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu- where to begin? Two of THE iconic activities and attractions of the entire South American continent, they are MUST SEE’s on any traveler’s list when touring Peru. I had been looking forward to the 4 day trek and my visit to the citadel in the sky ever since booking the trip waaayyyy back in May. Finally, almost 5 months later, I found myself sitting in the lobby of my hostel in Cusco- the capital city of the Inca Empire- waiting for my trekking company to pick me up. Yes it was early (6am), and sure, the Beatles cover band that played at the hostel the night before had kept me up significantly later than I had intended, but still, I was ready to hit the trail…

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 Day 1: Day 1 was an easy introduction to the Inca Trail. After a 3 hour bus ride and a quick stop off in the small town of Ollantaytambo for breakfast and last-minute supplies, the bus drove our group of 16 along a winding trail to a country outpost. We gathered our gear, sorted out sleeping bags and other camping essentials, and then headed to the first checkpoint of the Inca Trail. Once we had all shown our passports and had our permits stamped, we set off along the rocky track, our guides Edwin and Jimmy leading the way. It was pretty easy going that first day- a little up, a little down- ‘Peruvian Flat’ as the locals like to call it… We saw a couple of Inca sites from a distance, had an amazing lunch, and then hiked up to our first campsite. We got in pretty late in the afternoon, and the valley got COLD once the sun went behind the mountains. I was glad when hot tea was served, and then a huge dinner a bit later on. We were all very pleasantly surprised by the food- it was DELICIOUS, and there was lots of it… After having our fill, it was one more cup of tea before quickly crawling into our warm sleeping bags-  a 5am wake-up call and the massive climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass was looming just over the horizon on Day 2 of the Inca Trail…

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Day 2: Day 2 is commonly acknowledged as being the most difficult day of the Inca Trail- mainly because the first section of trail heads straight up to an altitude of 4,200m, finally reaching it’s pinnacle at Dead Woman’s Pass. A daunting sight when first climbing out of your tent at 5am. After a hearty breakfast, we shouldered our packs and set off on the long hike up to the pass. Fortunately, it was a perfect day for hiking- no rain, cool temps, and a bit overcast, which helped keep the sun from roasting us as we ascended the trail. Slow and steady was the mantra, and as our group made its way up the mountain side, discussion and banter became scarce as the air thinned out. We stopped several times for water and rest, each time peeking back down the trail to see the valley opening up below. It was INCREDIBLE- the scenery, as well as how far we had climbed in that morning… Insane. Eventually, we made it to the pass, running the final few steps in celebration. It had turned into a gorgeous day, and the view from the pass was awesome. Photos, videos, a few moments to take it all in (and catch your breath…), and then it was time for the long hike down the other side of the pass. Knees knocking, quads shaking, step after seemingly-unending Inca Step, we made our way down into the valley and made camp by around 130pm. And just as well, as it started raining about 20 minutes later- unfortunately for those that were still up on the trail. I couldn’t imagine how slippery the rocks would’ve been with that rain coming down- it would’ve been significantly more difficult, and much more dangerous as well. Still, the rest of the crew made it down safely, and to their credit, they all had smiles on when they made it to the dining tent. A late lunch, a few hands of cards, and before we knew it, it was time for dinner, and then off to bed. We raised a toast of a locally made warm rum drink, and then all headed off to bed, happy and EXHAUSTED from the long day on the trail.

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Day 3:  Day 3 was pretty difficult as well- as any stretch of trail nicknamed ‘The Gringo Killer’ would be…  We were up at 5am again, and knew we had a full day of hiking to make it to the final campsite before our arrival at Machu Picchu the following day. Once again, we had a hearty breakfast, and then headed out onto the trail. The first section was pretty much straight up the side of the mountain- we had seen the path the previous afternoon, and knew that the hard work would come straight away in the morning. Again, slowly but surely, we made our way up through the cloud forest and on through the second pass of the Inca Trail. After a brief rest and a lesson on the ceremonial method of chewing traditional coca leaves, we were off once again, plunging down the other side of the pass and into the valley below. It was a GREAT day of hiking- incredible views, amazing Inca sites, ever-changing foliage and landscape- just a beautiful day of hiking, and probably my favorite day on the trail. We had lunch on a peak of another mountain, followed by a brief ceremony in which we got to meet all of the local porters that were assisting us along the trail. Some of them were in their 60s(!), carrying MASSIVE packs full of food, tents, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment along the trail for us. If not for them, hiking the Inca Trail would be impossible… We thanked them all, and after a few group photos, were back on the trail. We hit a few impressive Inca sites in the afternoon, one of which we had completely to ourselves. It was incredible- once again, I found myself trying to imagine what these places would’ve been like at the peak of their civilization, but as always, it was impossible. Just impossible to fathom how these places were built, and what they looked like in their prime… After a few hours of soaking in the scenery, we made out way down to the final campsite, had an early dinner, and headed to bed. It was a 330am wake up for the final stretch up to Machu Picchu, and we all wanted to make sure we were rested up for our visit.

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 Day 4: Day 4 started out well before 330am for our group… It was raining- HARD- all night long, with cracks of thunder rumbling through the valley, and flashes of lightning illuminating the inside of the tent. Needless to say, sleep wasn’t that easy to find, and before we knew it, the porters were knocking on the tents, trying to coax us out into the downpour- not an easy task. Still, we knew we had to get going, so we donned the rain gear, broke out the backpack covers, and climbed out into the soggy darkness. We had a quick breakfast in the Dining Tent, and then had to file down to the final checkpoint, which we then realized didn’t even open until 530am… We had to stand there, in the rain, in the dark, for over an hour, before even being able to start the final stretch of trail.. I’m still not sure why they do things that way, but needless to say, we were not very happy standing there in the rain… Nevertheless, we WERE on our way to Machu Picchu, and the sky was brightening up. Thankfully, the rain stopped, and as the line began to pass through the checkpoint, we were all anxious to get up the trail. Once our group had passed through, it was a free-for-all trying to get up the final 3 kilometers to the Sun Gate, where we would get our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Honestly, I think that was the most difficult section of the Inca Trail for me, solely because of the PACE at which we were climbing the trail. A couple of girls in our group were pretty avid hikers, so we filed in behind them, and made our way past the two or three other groups that had been in front of us in line at the checkpoint. Finally- panting for air, dripping with sweat, and begging for water- we made it to the Sun Gate, and like THAT- everything else just faded away. We had MADE IT- there was Machu Picchu, the fabled Inca citadel, spread out on the peaks below us. There was a light mist hanging in the valley, giving the place a mystical feel typical and unique to such historic sites. It literally took our breath away… We had to sit and marvel for a few moments, but as more people began to arrive, we realized that we needed to get a few pictures in before the hoards of other trekkers overran the Sun Gate. It wasn’t long before that became reality, and our group started the long trek down into the city.

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The morning went all too quickly- first we had to check our big backpacks, and then we began our guided tour of Machu Picchu. Edwin explained much of the architecture and symbolism of the site, but the crazy thing about Machu Picchu is that most of what we ‘know’ about it is actually just theory- there is no written record of the site, the Spanish Conquistadores never found it, and it went largely unnoticed until Hiram Bingham ‘discovered’ the site in 1911. Since then, the site has remained shrouded in mystery, as there is no definite answer to what it’s purpose was, who lived there, and why or when it was abandoned. The only clues lie in the exquisitely carved and crafted stonework of many of the building, which was typically reserved for royal palaces and places of religious activities in other Inca sites. Regardless of the mystery, the place is INCREDIBLE- a massive city of stone impossibly built on the peak of a mountain. As other places of such magnitude- words cannot describe…

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After our tour, we had a couple of hours of free time to wander around the ruins, check out places that weren’t on the tour, and rub shoulders (quite literally) with the thousands of other tourists at the site. Unfortunately, we were all pretty exhausted from the long night of rain and the EARLY morning, so it took a tremendous effort to hike around the site. Still- for most of the group, this was their only day at Machu Picchu, and they had to make the most of it. Finally, we had to make our way to the buses and down the mountain to the town of Aguas Calientes below- our sending-off lunch was set for 2pm, and those heading back to Cusco had to be on the train by 630p. A huge pizza, several well-earned beers, a few final rounds of cards, and then it was time for me to say goodbye to the rest of the group- I had booked a bed in a hostel for a night in Aguas Calientes and a return to Machu Picchu the next day. I knew a dead-tired half-day at the site would not be enough to do all the exploring I wanted to do. I said my goodbyes, found my hostel, had a quick bite to eat, and then hit the sack. I knew I had a LOT to see the next day, and my legs needed some rest before one last visit to Machu Picchu.

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Day 5: I got up around 8am, had breakfast, and then caught the bus back up the mountain to the entrance gates of Machu Picchu. I had booked a ticket to climb the neighboring peak of Huayna Picchu at 10am, so had about an hour or so to wander around the site before starting the climb. Huayna Picchu was AWESOME, well worth the effort of the climb. Getting to the peak provides unique views of Machu Picchu, and a great view of the valley and surrounding areas as well. True, my legs were feeling it, but again, it was well worth it. That was just the beginning of my day- I was DETERMINED to do everything I possibly could while at the site. To be honest, I think I saw EVERY stone, temple, cavern, and terrace there was to be seen at Machu Picchu that day. Climb Huayna Picchu? Check! Climb down the back side of Huayna Picchu to see the Temple of the Moon and the Grand Caverna? Check! Climb back UP the massive staircase to the summit of Huayna Picchu? Check! Climb the smaller peak of Huchuy Picchu? Check! Hike up ALL of the terraces and around to the impressive Inca Bridge? Check! Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Condor, the Casa del Inca, The Observatory, Temple of the Three Windows, the Royal Baths- CHECK! Honestly, by the time 5pm rolled around, I was the most exhausted I have been in a LONG time- but it was that magical kind of contented, elated, well-earned exhaustion. I snapped a few final photos, and said my final farewell to the citadel of Machu Picchu. I fell asleep on the winding bus ride back down to town, had a quick shower and a bite to eat, and then it was time for the train back to Cusco.

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Hike the Inca Trail and visit Machu Picchu- CHECK!!! Another AMAZING adventure for the The Backpack Professor…

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For more information on hiking the Inca Trail, visiting Machu Picchu, and traveling through Perú, click here.

For more on The Backpack Professor’s travels through Perú, click here.

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Into the Andes…

October 11, 2012 — Leave a comment

 

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After my adventures in Ecuador, I decided it was time to head for the mountains- namely, the soaring Andes Mountains of Central Peru. I had highlighted the Peruvian city of Huaraz as a MUST SEE during the planning phases of my trip, and knew that if I wanted to have more than a day or two in the high Andes, I had to get a move on. Initiate OPERATION: HUARAZ…

What a mission. I was in Vilcabamba, Southern Ecuador, when I made the decision to head straight for Huaraz, which is in Central Peru. I knew it would be a long trip, and that I might have to break it up into two days. After poring over the map, I had a plan in mind, and set my alarm for 5am in order to make the 530am bus to Loja, Ecuador to start the journey south…

Long story short- I spent the next 30+ hours traveling on 6 different buses between 7 different cities, including an unplanned overnight stay in the city of Trujillo, Peru. Yeah- an epic Moving Day if there ever was one… Nevertheless, as soon as my bus cleared the high mountain pass and started its descent toward Huaraz in the valley below, I knew I had made the right decision. The snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Blanca spread out before us, stretching from one horizon to the next. Glaciers poured down the sides of the mountains, glinting in the bright midday sun. Billowing clouds and spotted sunshine created a beautiful scene as the bus wound its way down the mountains. ‘Now THIS is what I came to South America for…’ I thought, with a smile on my face, anxious to stretch my legs in the city below.

 

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Huaraz is awesome- everything you would expect of a mountain town, with a Peruvian twist, of course. Trekking agencies line the streets, with mountaineering and hiking gear shops appearing on every corner. There is no lack for dining variety, with Peruvian, Asian, Italian, Chinese, and other types of restaurants luring in the hungry with their daily specials and delicious smells. Cafes, bookshops, souvenir and craft stores provide ample shopping opportunities, while local indigenous women sell street food and hand-woven sweaters, scarves, hats, and gloves on the streets around the central plaza. I happened upon a little local polleria (chicken broaster), where I got ½ of a roasted chicken , a MOUNTAIN of fries, and a HUGE salad for 12 soles (less than $5US). Yeah, I was going to like Huaraz…

I had read that Huaraz was one of the mountain biking capitals of South America, and thus spent my first day acclimatizing to the altitude in Huaraz (3.052m/10,013ft.) and talking to several different companies about possible day trips for the following day. It was the ‘shoulder season’ in Huaraz- coming down from the high and into the low season- so there weren’t a lot of people around, which meant that bike trips were hard to come by. Luckily, I found a company that would run a guided trip for one person, so I booked with them, had a quick bite to eat, and headed to bed , excited for my downhill trip through the Andes the following day.

 

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The mountain bike trip was AMAZING- after an hour’s ride up the mountain in the company’s van, we set out on a leisurely ride through some fields and villages in the foothills of some towering peaks. There were two French girls along for the beginning part of the ride, and we all took it easy in the thin mountain air. The scenery was SPECTACULAR- the Cordillera Blanca is the highest mountain range in the world outside of the Himalayas, and the skyscraping peaks that surrounded us left no doubt of that. We meandered along rocky trails and ruddy mountain roads for an hour or so, stopping here and there for water breaks and photo ops, content to just breathe the mountain air and enjoy the view. Eventually, we came to stopping point, and that was where the group split up. Jesus (my guide- aptly named, as I was soon to realize…) turned off onto a narrow, winding path down into the fields below, and before I knew it, we were SCREAMING downhill- over burms and around boulders, dirt and dust flying, breaks squealing as the speed mounted… It went from a la-dee-da pleasure cruise to ‘IT’S ON’ in a flash- and I.was.LOVING.it…

The ride continued like this for the rest of the day, as Jesus and I wound our way down the mountain and back to Huaraz. It was pretty intense- probably some of the most technical mountain biking I have done in my life- and I was glad to have a bike with full suspension. That made all the difference when taking on the boulders, steps, and steeper sections of the trails. We wound our way through some villages as we got closer to the end of the trail, with children shouting ‘HOLA!’ and waving as we sped past them… Kids- they’re the same all over the world.

 

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Finally, we came to the bottom of the trail, and found ourselves back in Huaraz. We wound our way through the upper city streets and down to the bike shop, where I hopped off my trusty steed, legs a bit wobbly, hands a bit sore from the incessant pounding of the rocks. I was tired, for sure, but it had been a great day on the trails. I thanked Jesus, and headed to the hostel for a quick shower. I spent the rest of the day hanging out in a café in town, checking email and having an amazing omelet for lunch. I had a big hike on tap for the next day, so again, it was a low-key night: quick dinner at local Chifa restaurant (Chinese), a quick stop at the market for some water and snacks for the next day, and then back to the hostel. I was exhausted, and needed some sleep before the long hike to Laguna 69.

 

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Laguna 69 has the reputation of being one of the most spectacular single-day hikes in the world, and after having completed the trek, I would have to say it has rightfully earned that lofty recognition. It is STUNNING- almost surreal, in many ways. Deep, lush, winding valleys; trickling streams tumbling off high ridges into magnificent waterfalls; the towering snow-capped peaks of the Andes standing watch over it all… It was amazing. The terrain was continually changing as we gained altitude towards the high mountain lake, which added to the experience of the hike itself. Despite the altitude, the hike was not overly difficult- yes, there were some climbing sections, but by taking things slow and steady, I was able to avoid any effects of altitude sickness. I was stopping to take photos pretty regularly- that helped as well…

 

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Eventually, we mounted the final set of switchbacks, and the sparkling, impossibly blue mountain lake of Laguna 69 came into view. Again- SPECTACULAR. Crystal-clear, all the way to the bottom, with countless waterfalls trickling down from the glaciers just above; towering peaks surrounding the lake, their snow-capped peaks glowing in the sunlight- a remarkable setting, to say the very least. Of course, words, pictures, even HD videos will never do it justice- it is a place you will have to visit for yourself… We scattered around the rocky shores of the lake, and settled in to enjoy a couple of hours at what has to be one of the most spectacular places in South America. Lunch, tea, photos- one brave soul even went for a swim in the glacier-fed lagoon. A QUICK swim. As is always the case, the time went by way too quickly, and before we knew it, we had to start the hike back down the mountain.

 

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The hike down was spectacular as well- the clouds had cleared out, and the valley spread out before us as we descended the winding trail. We took our time on the way down, enjoying the scenery and stopping here and there for a quick breath. Eventually, we made it down to the side of a mountain stream just before the trailhead, so we sat down and relaxed in the mountain sun. It was a clear afternoon, and the sun felt great after a long day on the trail. We finished off the remnants of our lunches, and had a quick snooze before heading up the final part of the trail to meet the bus back to Huaraz. Again, words and pictures can’t do it justice, but it was a GREAT day on the trails of the Cordillera Blanca.

 

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Of course. After such a day, we were all BEAT. We agreed to meet in the central plaza to go for dinner, but none of us had much to say over our meals. I had a 10am bus to Lima the next morning, so made my way back to the hostel, packed my bags, and hit the hay, asleep in seconds. My time was short, but it was a great few days in Huaraz, and well worth the epic journey to get there. It is definitely a place I hope to return someday.

 

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For more information on traveling through Perú, click here.

For more on The Backpack Professor’s travels through Perú, click here.

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Condors, craters, crafts, and cascades- this is Ecuador

October 7, 2012 — Leave a comment

 

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Ecuador- where to begin? It’s crazy, really. I was only there for a week- and it was a whirlwind tour for those 7 days- but somehow, I just fell in love with the place. The natural beauty, the friendly people, the rolling hills and the towering volcanoes- an outdoor adventurer’s dream, for sure. Maybe that’s why I liked it so much. And to think- I only had time to hit 3 or 4 of the countless highlights along the way. Alas, I know my time in South America is brief, and I have to make the most of every second… That’s what I tried to do in Ecuador.

I arrived in Otavalo- a small town in the northern part of the country- after a day-long mission of a trip from Popayan in southern Colombia. 5am alarm, 6 hour bus to the border, minibus ride to the exit checkpoint, walk across the border, entrance formalities in Ecuador, taxi to the bus terminal in the next town, and another 5 hour bus ride to Otavalo. Have I ever mentioned how much I LOVE Moving Day? Ugh… Anyway, I arrived in Otavalo after dark, in the rain, and was glad to have a taxi waiting to take me to my hostel- for $1. (Quick sidenote: I quickly realized that one of the bonuses of traveling in Ecuador is that they use US Dollars as their national currency- no confusing exchange rates, no mind games with bargaining prices… Muy facil!) I got checked into my hostel, ventured out for a bite to eat, and then headed to bed- I knew I had a full day on tap, and needed some rest after the long journey from Colombia.

The next day, I grabbed a quick breakfast at the hostel (Included with the price of my room), and then made a plan for the day. There was a local bird sanctuary that focused on rescuing birds of prey found abandoned or injured in the wild, and in addition to their resident Andean Condors (the world‘s largest land bird, with a wingspan up to 11 feet), they had daily flight demonstrations which were supposed to be pretty incredible. There was also a local hike that circled around a dormant volcano crater in a small village outside of Otavalo. I had met a German couple at the hostel that said it was spectacular, and perfect for a half-day hike of 4-5 hours. Game. On.

I hired a taxi, and headed up the rocky, ruddy, pot-holed, road to the Parque Condors, bought my entrance ticket, and began my tour around the grounds. I was immediately taken aback by the scenery- Ecuador is GORGEOUS, with rolling green hills, towering rocky mountains, and silky white clouds drifting across a impeccably blue sky. Yeah, there were several interesting birds to see, but the view from that hillside was AMAZING. Now THAT was what I came to South America for… I took a few (SEVERAL) pictures, even broke the video camera out to document the moment, and then had to hustle up to get to the flight demonstration area in time for the show to begin.

The flight demonstration was pretty cool, despite it being orated totally in Spanish. My Spanish is coming along, slowly but surely- I was able pick out a few words here and there, and make some sense of what the guide was saying. I think… Anyway, he brought several different species of birds out to display, even let some of the spectators hold one of the smaller ones, and then had a few that he was going to release into the open air to demonstrate their soaring abilities, etc. The trouble was, the first one he released decided it wanted to have an extended flight that day, and simply soared on the breeze for the next 30 minutes. He brought more birds out in the meantime, and gave us an opportunity to get a few photos of the massive condors. Eventually, the wayward eagle had had its fun, and came ZOOMING back onto the guides arm- very impressive, and it was only by sheer luck that I had my camera ready when she came swooping in. It was intense- it sounded like a small jet coming in for a landing… Very cool. We tried to get him to let us hold the bigger bird, but he laughed and shook his head. Hey, it can’t hurt to ask, right?

After the flight demonstration, I hopped back in my taxi and headed straight for the trailhead of the Laguna Cuicocha- the dormant volcano that had since become a lake and a popular hiking destination for locals and tourists alike. The trail was supposed to take between 4 and 5 hours, and followed along the very EDGE of the crater wall as it circled the lake below. I asked the park ranger a few questions about security, time, and weather, and with a shake of his head and a ‘Tranquillo, amigo- todo esta seguro’, I was off.

 

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The hike was incredible. Again, the magnificent scenery of Ecuador spread out for miles and miles around the crater, with the hills and mountains disappearing into the clouds in the distance. I had a spring in my step as I set out, anxious to take on the trail, but that was quickly quelled as the thin air of Otavalo reminded me of the 2550m elevation. Whew! Maybe I wasn’t going t be breaking any time records for the circuit… Oh well, better to slow down and enjoy the scenery anyway, right? And what scenery it was- the crater itself was MASSIVE, with sheer cliffs dropping hundreds of meters into the waters below. Signs cautioning against getting too close to the edge were posted everywhere along the trail, hinting that perhaps someone may have gotten a bit too close in the past. The trail was in great condition- very well kept, marked clearly at every turn, and meandered along the edge of the crater. I had to stop several times for photos- and to catch my breath- but after I reached the highest point, it was mostly all downhill from there. There were some ominous clouds rolling in, and I could hear thunder in the distance, so I had to hoof it towards the end of the circuit, but it turned out to be a non-issue- the clouds got stuck in a neighboring valley, and the sky cleared up over the crater. I made it back to the lodge just as a couple of local workers were leaving, and they game me a lift back into the village, where I caught a bus back to Otavalo. Yes, I was exhausted, but it had been a great day. I had a bite to eat, and collapsed into my bed with a smile on my face. Welcome to Ecuador!

 

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The next morning, I was scheduled to be on a bus headed south around noon, but wanted to check out the local craft market first. Otavalo is famous for having the largest craft market in South America- on Saturdays, traditionally dressed indigenous Ecuadorians descend on the town in droves, selling anything and EVERYTHING imaginable to the locals and tourists poring through the stalls of the market. Supposedly, it is quite a scene… I was there on a Tuesday, and was blown away by the size of the market and the diversity of what was on offer- hand-made scarves, jackets, shirts, dolls, and hats; printed paintings, artistically woven handbags, hammocks, chairs, and purses; fabrics and textiles of every texture and color; food the like of which I had never seen, smelled, or tasted… It was amazing. I could only imagine what it would’ve been like on a Saturday. Maybe next time… I perused the market for a while, making sure not to feign too much interest in order to avoid being heckled by the vendors, and then had to head to the bus station.

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It was a 6 hour bus ride to Baños, the next stop on my trip through Ecuador. I had decided to bypass Quito in the interest of doing more outdoor activities- I had seen several cities in Colombia, and was keen to stay out of the urban areas and instead continue to take advantage of Ecuador’s natural beauty. I had read great things about Baños, and knew that would be a great spot to continue the adventure.

Of course, I rolled into town in a pouring rainstorm, but somehow found myself smiling, able to embrace the Backpacker‘s ‘It’s all a part of the experience’ mantra. I pulled out my backpack’s rain cover, took one last look at the map before stuffing it into my pocket, and headed of into town, tramping my way around puddles and dodging downspouts all the way to my hostel. I checked in, changed into some dry clothes, and was determined to find something to eat. Luckily, it had stopped raining, and the town seemed to be coming alive. I wandered around a bit until I passed this hole-in-the-wall taco stand, and didn’t make it 5 steps before the smell lured me in. I was HUNGRY. $2.50 for two massive tacos, a heaping serving of rice and beans, and a small salad? Ummm, yes please! While I was waiting for my food to be served, another group wandered by, and a one of the girls got sucked in by the smell as well. As it was a TINY place (2 tables), we started chatting, and before I knew it, I was having a beer at the pub next door, talking with a few Australians, a German couple, a Danish girl, a Canadian and her Kiwi boyfriend. That’s how it goes when your backpacking- somehow, things just seem to fall into place. One moment, you’re sitting by yourself in a foreign country, waiting for a cheap taco and a pile rice, and the next you’re surrounded by a group of like-minded friends, interested in who you are and what you‘re doing there, inviting you to join them for whatever the night might have in store. It’s pretty sweet…

The night in Baños was a good time- we wandered around, hit a couple of bars, and found this great place with a massive firepit going, which was perfect on a cool, damp night. We all agreed to meet up the next morning to plan some activities for the day, and I made my way back to my hostel for a good night’s sleep.

 

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The next day, we decided to hire a 4-wheel-drive jeep to go explore all of the local waterfalls around Baños. Somehow, I got nominated to be the driver, and found myself behind the wheel of this crazy Ecuadorian Jeep, with 3 people’s lives in my hands on the winding roads through the mountains around Baños. Good times! Did I mention it was raining, the roads were WET, and that the jeep had a quarter-turn delay in steering response? No? Oh, well, add that into the mix… Regardless of all of that, we had an amazing day, and it was a great adventure… We saw several waterfalls, culminating in the Pailon del Diablo- the Devil’s Cauldron- a MASSIVE cascade pummeling through a narrow gap in the rocks just outside of town. It was INTENSE- so much water smashing through this tiny area, shooting mist and spray high above the waterfall itself. It was pretty awesome, but there was so much water, you couldn’t get near it with a camera- we were SOAKED within seconds. We were able to cross a small bridge over the ravine and get some photos from the other side, but still, it was nothing compared to being next to the waterfall. There was also a small crawl space we shimmied up that allowed us to stand directly behind the gushing water. It was incredible, and a bit scary, to be honest- there was just so much water. We quickly climbed back down, and then headed back up the trail to try to get warm. We were soaking wet and FREEZING.

We had to hurry to get the jeep back to town, and then I headed directly for the fireplace in my hostel, trying in vain to get my shoes and clothes to dry in the damp air. Still, the fire was warm, and it was the perfect way to warm up after the long, damp day.

I met up with the rest of the crew for dinner, and then we hit up a shisha bar and a crazy local dance club- it was a great end to a great day in Baños, that is for sure.

Alas, my time in Ecuador was coming to a close- the Andes were waiting, and it was time to head to Peru! The next day, I hopped on a bus headed south, and started the long journey towards the Peruvian border… But, the story of THAT epic journey will have to wait until next time.

 

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For more information on traveling through Ecuador, click here.

For more on The Backpack Professor’s travels through Ecuador, click here.

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Meeting King Kong in Rwanda

August 11, 2012 — Leave a comment

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One of THE main attractions of my entire trip through Africa was the opportunity to visit the infamous Mountain Gorillas in the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda. A once-in-a-lifetime chance to come face to face with King of the Apes? Yes, please! We had to register  with the Rwandese government months in advance in order to get special permits issued prior to our arrival in Rwanda, as they are extremely limited- and thus in very high demand. The government controls the number of these permits in order to reduce the amount of people visiting the gorillas in an effort to preserve their habitat. Thus, the permits don’t come cheap- $500 US when I was in Africa, with rumors of the price hiking to $1000US. The money raised through the sales of the permits goes towards the protection and preservation of the mountain gorillas and their habitat- a worthwhile cause- and, again, since it was a once-in-a-lifetime chance, I couldn’t pass it up. We completed the paperwork months in advance, our permits were issued, and rain or shine, we were going to visit a family of mountain gorillas when we got to Rwanda.

We arrived in Musanze- the launching point for our trek- late in the afternoon, and got straight to the business of collecting our permits and getting all of our camera batteries charged for the following day. We were told that the weather in the mountains could change in minutes, and had to pack for every possibility- rain or shine, hot or cold- chances were we would see it all during our trek into the mountains. All preparations completed, we set our alarms for EARLY the next morning (4am), and hit the hay with visions of King Kong dancing in out heads.

We knew that EVERYTHING about the trek was based on the gorillas’ daily schedule- they feed at certain times, they play at certain times, they rest at certain times- and this routine was used to determine the best time for people to visit the gorilla families. The difficult part was that the gorillas typically move overnight, making it necessary for spotters to locate them in the dense forest and radio their position down to guides at the park office prior to the groups setting out. As a result, the hike up the mountain to reach the gorillas could range anywhere from 30 minutes to 3-4 hours, depending on where the gorillas had settled for the day. Because of this, we had to be at the park office early enough to ensure that we would be able to reach our designated families at the appropriate time of day.

It was still dark out when we were picked up from our hotel, and we couldn’t see the town and surrounding countryside we were driving through. Most dozed off, heads rolling an bobbing along with the bounce of the truck as it rumbled down the pot-holed roads towards the park. Eventually, we pulled off the bumpy road and into the parking lot, greeted by a welcome sign flanked by a huge gorilla statue. We climbed out of the truck and stretched in the gravely parking lot, and it was then that we caught our first glimpse of the Virunga Mountains- the home of the mountain gorillas. Awesome, startling, rugged, lush, vibrant- all words to describe those incredible volcanoes on first impression. The sun had finally risen, and they were bathed in a yellow light that seemed to amplify the deep green forests that blanketed them. They were so unique- unlike any mountains I had ever seen before- organic in some way. How they rose out of the surrounding hills, soaring above the fields and forests, their almost pulsing green contrasted against the bright blue sky- it was surreal.

 

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We stood there, taking in the amazing scene, knowing that somewhere, up in the dense jungles on the mountainside, the gorillas were waiting for us. We headed over to the park office, refocusing on the reason we had come- we were going up into those mountains, we would trek through the trees and the vines of the jungle, and eventually, we would come face to face with the powerful mountain gorillas. Needless to say, we were wide awake, and the blood was pumping…

After grabbing a cup of tea, we were split up into smaller groups and assigned to a gorilla family. Each group numbered about 8 people, and there were probably 6-8 groups  altogether. Each had a guide and a spotter, and they went over the safety regulations and protocol for visiting the gorilla families. ‘Don’t look the males in the eye’; ‘No grunting or growling noises’; ‘Stay at least 10 meters away from the animals; etc.- all for the safety of the people as well as that of the gorillas. After all this, we were ‘introduced’ to our gorilla family- our’s was the “Kwitonda” family. Each guide had a laminated sheet which showed pictures of the various members of that specific family- dominant males, subordinate males, females, and their offspring. It was a family tree of that gorilla family, listing birthdays, ages, relationships to others in the group, etc.- a helpful tool in letting us learn a bit more about the gorillas we were about to meet. After we had all had a good look at the family tree, it was time to pile into the trucks and head up into the mountains. A quick last check of our gear, and we were off!

The road up into the mountains was AWFUL- bumps and ruts, potholes and boulders, washouts and puddles- we all hung on for dear life in the back of the truck as it bounced and jostled its way through the small farming villages and up into the foothills of the volcano. Our guide had learned the Kwitonda Family’s location from the spotters in the field earlier in the morning, and once we were on the trail, it would be up to the spotters to inform him of any movements the gorillas might make during their morning feeding period. Then, it would be up to our guide to follow their directions through the dense jungle and up to the gorillas’ location. Easy enough, right?

 

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Before long, the road ended- or more accurately, became un-drivable- so we climbed out, shouldered our daypacks, and set out on foot through the fields and forests of the volcano’s foot. The approach to the foot of the volcano was a beautiful hike- neatly manicured fields running off in all directions, a few locals spotted here and there throughout, tending to their crops. The sun was warm, and we quickly began shedding layers as the climb continued uphill. We crossed brooks and cool mountain streams, passed under towering trees and over low hedgerows, always up, always on the climb.  Our guide would stop periodically to give us a chance to catch our breath as well as tell us a bit more about the park and its inhabitants. While passing through the farmland, he explained how the locals and the park work together to manage the preservation of the gorillas and their habitat. Much of the money that is paid by tourists for gorilla trek permits flows down into the local economy, a trade-off with the villagers. They in turn allow the tourists to pass through their farmland and refrain from expanding their farms further up the mountain and into the gorillas’ habitat. This working relationship allows park officials to successfully manage the protection and preservation of the gorillas and their habitat in the mountains.

We eventually came to a stone wall at the edge of the jungle that had been built by the villagers to prevent wild buffalo from getting down into their fields and trampling the crops. There were stones that allowed us to climb and pass over the wall, and then, we were in the jungle. Our guide headed down what he must’ve know to be a trail, though to us it just looked like more dense jungle. He hacked a few branches out of the way with his machete, and we all filed in behind him, climbing single file further up into the dense forest.

It was hot in the trees- the air was still, no breeze at all, and we were all feeling it as we climbed. No wonder they had advised us to bring so much water- I was SWEATING. It was incredible though, trekking through the Rwandan jungle- trees, plants, flowers, vines- the likes of which I had never seen before. It seemed to almost hum with life- the buzzing of bees and flying insects, the chirps and songs of birds hidden in the trees, the deep breathing and rhythmic footfalls of our group joining in the chorus as we climbed higher up the volcano. Every so often, our guide would stop ad get on his radio, communicating with the spotters higher up to make sure we were going the right way, and we’d take advantage of the brief rest by grabbing a drink and wiping the sweat from our faces. We weren’t complaining- we had heard tales of people having to do their gorilla trek in a downpour, mud up to their ankles, the trails flooded as rainwater rushed down the mountainside, climbing and searching for hours, yet never actually seeing any gorillas, and then finding no refunds for their permits waiting back at the office. No- hot and sweaty in the sunshine was fine with us…

 

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After an hour on the trail, we stopped once more, and our guide told us to put all of our backpacks in a pile together. He explained that the gorillas were very close, and that we couldn’t take our bags with us. We gathered all of our cameras, batteries, and any valuables (Money, passports, etc.) into our pockets, got into a strict single-file line, directly behind him. We were to stay as close to one another as possible, no one lagging behind and stringing the group out. Adrenaline pumping, we slowly crept along as our guide led us further into the jungle.

As we moved together, our guide called out to the spotters, and we could hear them calling back, leading us their position. Our guide was moving very deliberately, and was making frequent low, rolling, rumbling nosies deep in his chest. We could hear similar grunts and rumbles coming from the jungle in front of us, but it was clear that those sounds weren’t coming from anything human. We strained our eyes against the sunlight, searching for any hint of black fur that we could find, but all we saw was green, green, green… It was impossible- the noises sounded SO close, like we were almost on top of them- yet still, we couldn’t see anything.

Slowly, slowly, we crept forward through the undergrowth, trying to make as little noise as possible. As we came around a large bush, we found ourselves at the edge of a small clearing, and immediately our guide stopped, holding his hand up to signal us to freeze. He continued making that grunting noise, and never looking away, nodded towards the trees across in the distance across the clearing. We all looked up, and there it was- a small, compact patch of black amongst the green leaves and brown vines of the trees. It was a strange moment- it seemed to take a second for us to realize what it was, even though we all really knew exactly what it was- a juvenile mountain gorilla, perched in the trees, casually munching on some leaves while looking back at us. It was all I could do not to point (‘No pointing’- another rule. Pointing can be viewed as a threat or challenge by adult gorillas, and we didn’t need any of that business…)- there was a gorilla in the trees, less than 10 meters away! We were all busy getting a few shots with our cameras when, before we knew what was happening, a female with her baby on her back came ambling out of the underbrush on all fours, headed directly towards our group. Our guide froze, continued to make his rumbling noise, a bit louder, but still the mother came on. She was no more than an arms-length away when she finally altered her course. We must have startled her somehow, for she made a loud screeching noise and hurriedly hopped away- it was almost like she didn’t realize we were there… Amazing. After she had passed, our guide stepped forward, ever so slowly, and we cautiously followed.

 

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We knew we only had an hour to spend with the gorillas once we had come in contact with them, and immediately, the mental timer started ticking away in the back of our minds. We wanted to make the most of it. Luckily for us, the Kwitonda Family was more than happy to oblige. As we crept forward along the outskirts of the clearing, we realized that we were in the midst of almost the entire family group. A mother and her baby seated on a log, partially hidden by leaves, munching away; a MASSIVE silverback, laid down on his elbows, thoughtfully chewing on a stick, battle scars all down his sides; a group of gorillas lolling in the clearing, enjoying a mid-morning snooze; and finally mighty Kwitonda himself, the dominant male, somehow impossibly bigger and broader than all the rest, seated in a hollow of bamboo, his deep rumbling voice making our hair stand on end as he welcomed us to his home. It was incredible- we were SO close to all of these gorillas, and yet they didn’t seem to mind at all. Of course, they have human visitors pretty regularly, so were accustomed to people being around. Still, that didn’t take anything away from being face to face with giant mountain gorillas- IN THE WILD. It was awesome.

 

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We spent the next hour marveling at these rarest of creatures, awed by their sheer size and evident power, yet amazed at their calm and quiet demeanor. After our brief introduction, Kwitonda had moved off into dense underbrush to feed, and was no longer visible. No matter- we were continually reminded of his near-by presence by the occasional rumble of his awesome voice. Our attention turned to the group of gorillas that were lounging about in the clearing- some were sleeping, some were just lazing about, absent-mindedly chewing on grass, but there was one that was in full-on play mode. It was hilarious- a baby gorilla, no more than a year old, had challenged one of his older brothers to a wrestling match, and though the older one just wanted to sleep, the younger one was being a pest, and would not leave him alone. He kept crawling up on top of his older brother, grabbing at his ears and pulling at his fur until finally, the older brother would grab the little one and toss him away like a rag doll. The baby would roll to a stop, gather himself, and head back towards the group. Then the whole process would repeat itself, with the same conclusion. Once, the tiny baby almost rolled into our feet, and when he realized where he was, gave a little shout and scurried back up into the group, peering back at us over the protective arm of his mother.  After he got his courage back up, he stood up, gave himself a King Kong like chest-thumping, and assailed his brother once again. TOO FUNNY!

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Eventually, the other silverback come over to the group, and put an end to the non-sense. It was time for gorilla grooming, and everyone took up the activity. The delicate process of picking and pruning each other went on for some time, each individual meticulously scouring the others for ticks and other trespassers. They all surrounded the baby and gave him a good going-over, much to his displeasure. After this, it was back to relaxing, with the silverback giving a great demonstration of Gorilla Yoga- leg and calf stretches included. It was crazy- here we were, in the middle of the Rwandan jungle, 5 meters away from wild mountain gorillas, and one of the largest of the bunch is  so relaxed, he was just taking a minute to stretch his legs- amazing…

 

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After what seemed like only a few minutes, our hour was up, and we had to start heading down the mountain. We snapped our last photos, saying goodbye and thanking the gorillas for letting us spend some time with them. We slowly followed our guide back to our bags, packed up our cameras, and began the trek back down the volcano. Going down was much easier, and as luck would have it, some clouds had moved in and hidden the sun, cooling things off a bit. We quickly came back to the wall, and settled down on the other side to eat the lunches we had brought along with us. It was a quiet lunch, with everyone looking at their photos and rehashing the past hour. A few drops of rain started to fall out of the grey sky as we finished our sandwiches, and we knew it was time to get going. We couldn’t have timed it any better, as the sky opened up just as we arrived back at the truck with a downpour that would’ve had us soaked through only minutes before.  We piled in, each tired from the trek and slowly coming down from the high of such an incredible experience. The rain pounded on the roof and splashed across the windshield, the bump and sway of the truck lulling some to sleep. The drive back to the park office was quiet as well, some people sleeping, some gazing out into the rain, gazing back up the slopes of the volcano- honestly, I think we were all still up on the volcano, still in the company of the magnificent mountain gorillas.

 

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If you’d like to learn more about how to travel through Rwanda, click here.

For more on the Backpack Prof’s travels through Rwanda, click here.

 

 

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