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Condors, craters, crafts, and cascades- this is Ecuador

October 7, 2012 — Leave a comment

 

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Ecuador- where to begin? It’s crazy, really. I was only there for a week- and it was a whirlwind tour for those 7 days- but somehow, I just fell in love with the place. The natural beauty, the friendly people, the rolling hills and the towering volcanoes- an outdoor adventurer’s dream, for sure. Maybe that’s why I liked it so much. And to think- I only had time to hit 3 or 4 of the countless highlights along the way. Alas, I know my time in South America is brief, and I have to make the most of every second… That’s what I tried to do in Ecuador.

I arrived in Otavalo- a small town in the northern part of the country- after a day-long mission of a trip from Popayan in southern Colombia. 5am alarm, 6 hour bus to the border, minibus ride to the exit checkpoint, walk across the border, entrance formalities in Ecuador, taxi to the bus terminal in the next town, and another 5 hour bus ride to Otavalo. Have I ever mentioned how much I LOVE Moving Day? Ugh… Anyway, I arrived in Otavalo after dark, in the rain, and was glad to have a taxi waiting to take me to my hostel- for $1. (Quick sidenote: I quickly realized that one of the bonuses of traveling in Ecuador is that they use US Dollars as their national currency- no confusing exchange rates, no mind games with bargaining prices… Muy facil!) I got checked into my hostel, ventured out for a bite to eat, and then headed to bed- I knew I had a full day on tap, and needed some rest after the long journey from Colombia.

The next day, I grabbed a quick breakfast at the hostel (Included with the price of my room), and then made a plan for the day. There was a local bird sanctuary that focused on rescuing birds of prey found abandoned or injured in the wild, and in addition to their resident Andean Condors (the world‘s largest land bird, with a wingspan up to 11 feet), they had daily flight demonstrations which were supposed to be pretty incredible. There was also a local hike that circled around a dormant volcano crater in a small village outside of Otavalo. I had met a German couple at the hostel that said it was spectacular, and perfect for a half-day hike of 4-5 hours. Game. On.

I hired a taxi, and headed up the rocky, ruddy, pot-holed, road to the Parque Condors, bought my entrance ticket, and began my tour around the grounds. I was immediately taken aback by the scenery- Ecuador is GORGEOUS, with rolling green hills, towering rocky mountains, and silky white clouds drifting across a impeccably blue sky. Yeah, there were several interesting birds to see, but the view from that hillside was AMAZING. Now THAT was what I came to South America for… I took a few (SEVERAL) pictures, even broke the video camera out to document the moment, and then had to hustle up to get to the flight demonstration area in time for the show to begin.

The flight demonstration was pretty cool, despite it being orated totally in Spanish. My Spanish is coming along, slowly but surely- I was able pick out a few words here and there, and make some sense of what the guide was saying. I think… Anyway, he brought several different species of birds out to display, even let some of the spectators hold one of the smaller ones, and then had a few that he was going to release into the open air to demonstrate their soaring abilities, etc. The trouble was, the first one he released decided it wanted to have an extended flight that day, and simply soared on the breeze for the next 30 minutes. He brought more birds out in the meantime, and gave us an opportunity to get a few photos of the massive condors. Eventually, the wayward eagle had had its fun, and came ZOOMING back onto the guides arm- very impressive, and it was only by sheer luck that I had my camera ready when she came swooping in. It was intense- it sounded like a small jet coming in for a landing… Very cool. We tried to get him to let us hold the bigger bird, but he laughed and shook his head. Hey, it can’t hurt to ask, right?

After the flight demonstration, I hopped back in my taxi and headed straight for the trailhead of the Laguna Cuicocha- the dormant volcano that had since become a lake and a popular hiking destination for locals and tourists alike. The trail was supposed to take between 4 and 5 hours, and followed along the very EDGE of the crater wall as it circled the lake below. I asked the park ranger a few questions about security, time, and weather, and with a shake of his head and a ‘Tranquillo, amigo- todo esta seguro’, I was off.

 

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The hike was incredible. Again, the magnificent scenery of Ecuador spread out for miles and miles around the crater, with the hills and mountains disappearing into the clouds in the distance. I had a spring in my step as I set out, anxious to take on the trail, but that was quickly quelled as the thin air of Otavalo reminded me of the 2550m elevation. Whew! Maybe I wasn’t going t be breaking any time records for the circuit… Oh well, better to slow down and enjoy the scenery anyway, right? And what scenery it was- the crater itself was MASSIVE, with sheer cliffs dropping hundreds of meters into the waters below. Signs cautioning against getting too close to the edge were posted everywhere along the trail, hinting that perhaps someone may have gotten a bit too close in the past. The trail was in great condition- very well kept, marked clearly at every turn, and meandered along the edge of the crater. I had to stop several times for photos- and to catch my breath- but after I reached the highest point, it was mostly all downhill from there. There were some ominous clouds rolling in, and I could hear thunder in the distance, so I had to hoof it towards the end of the circuit, but it turned out to be a non-issue- the clouds got stuck in a neighboring valley, and the sky cleared up over the crater. I made it back to the lodge just as a couple of local workers were leaving, and they game me a lift back into the village, where I caught a bus back to Otavalo. Yes, I was exhausted, but it had been a great day. I had a bite to eat, and collapsed into my bed with a smile on my face. Welcome to Ecuador!

 

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The next morning, I was scheduled to be on a bus headed south around noon, but wanted to check out the local craft market first. Otavalo is famous for having the largest craft market in South America- on Saturdays, traditionally dressed indigenous Ecuadorians descend on the town in droves, selling anything and EVERYTHING imaginable to the locals and tourists poring through the stalls of the market. Supposedly, it is quite a scene… I was there on a Tuesday, and was blown away by the size of the market and the diversity of what was on offer- hand-made scarves, jackets, shirts, dolls, and hats; printed paintings, artistically woven handbags, hammocks, chairs, and purses; fabrics and textiles of every texture and color; food the like of which I had never seen, smelled, or tasted… It was amazing. I could only imagine what it would’ve been like on a Saturday. Maybe next time… I perused the market for a while, making sure not to feign too much interest in order to avoid being heckled by the vendors, and then had to head to the bus station.

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It was a 6 hour bus ride to Baños, the next stop on my trip through Ecuador. I had decided to bypass Quito in the interest of doing more outdoor activities- I had seen several cities in Colombia, and was keen to stay out of the urban areas and instead continue to take advantage of Ecuador’s natural beauty. I had read great things about Baños, and knew that would be a great spot to continue the adventure.

Of course, I rolled into town in a pouring rainstorm, but somehow found myself smiling, able to embrace the Backpacker‘s ‘It’s all a part of the experience’ mantra. I pulled out my backpack’s rain cover, took one last look at the map before stuffing it into my pocket, and headed of into town, tramping my way around puddles and dodging downspouts all the way to my hostel. I checked in, changed into some dry clothes, and was determined to find something to eat. Luckily, it had stopped raining, and the town seemed to be coming alive. I wandered around a bit until I passed this hole-in-the-wall taco stand, and didn’t make it 5 steps before the smell lured me in. I was HUNGRY. $2.50 for two massive tacos, a heaping serving of rice and beans, and a small salad? Ummm, yes please! While I was waiting for my food to be served, another group wandered by, and a one of the girls got sucked in by the smell as well. As it was a TINY place (2 tables), we started chatting, and before I knew it, I was having a beer at the pub next door, talking with a few Australians, a German couple, a Danish girl, a Canadian and her Kiwi boyfriend. That’s how it goes when your backpacking- somehow, things just seem to fall into place. One moment, you’re sitting by yourself in a foreign country, waiting for a cheap taco and a pile rice, and the next you’re surrounded by a group of like-minded friends, interested in who you are and what you‘re doing there, inviting you to join them for whatever the night might have in store. It’s pretty sweet…

The night in Baños was a good time- we wandered around, hit a couple of bars, and found this great place with a massive firepit going, which was perfect on a cool, damp night. We all agreed to meet up the next morning to plan some activities for the day, and I made my way back to my hostel for a good night’s sleep.

 

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The next day, we decided to hire a 4-wheel-drive jeep to go explore all of the local waterfalls around Baños. Somehow, I got nominated to be the driver, and found myself behind the wheel of this crazy Ecuadorian Jeep, with 3 people’s lives in my hands on the winding roads through the mountains around Baños. Good times! Did I mention it was raining, the roads were WET, and that the jeep had a quarter-turn delay in steering response? No? Oh, well, add that into the mix… Regardless of all of that, we had an amazing day, and it was a great adventure… We saw several waterfalls, culminating in the Pailon del Diablo- the Devil’s Cauldron- a MASSIVE cascade pummeling through a narrow gap in the rocks just outside of town. It was INTENSE- so much water smashing through this tiny area, shooting mist and spray high above the waterfall itself. It was pretty awesome, but there was so much water, you couldn’t get near it with a camera- we were SOAKED within seconds. We were able to cross a small bridge over the ravine and get some photos from the other side, but still, it was nothing compared to being next to the waterfall. There was also a small crawl space we shimmied up that allowed us to stand directly behind the gushing water. It was incredible, and a bit scary, to be honest- there was just so much water. We quickly climbed back down, and then headed back up the trail to try to get warm. We were soaking wet and FREEZING.

We had to hurry to get the jeep back to town, and then I headed directly for the fireplace in my hostel, trying in vain to get my shoes and clothes to dry in the damp air. Still, the fire was warm, and it was the perfect way to warm up after the long, damp day.

I met up with the rest of the crew for dinner, and then we hit up a shisha bar and a crazy local dance club- it was a great end to a great day in Baños, that is for sure.

Alas, my time in Ecuador was coming to a close- the Andes were waiting, and it was time to head to Peru! The next day, I hopped on a bus headed south, and started the long journey towards the Peruvian border… But, the story of THAT epic journey will have to wait until next time.

 

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For more information on traveling through Ecuador, click here.

For more on The Backpack Professor’s travels through Ecuador, click here.

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Camping out in the Okavango Delta

August 11, 2012 — Leave a comment

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While traveling in Botswana, I took a 3-day/2-night trip out into the Okavango Delta. A literal oasis in the middle of the sprawling Kalahari Desert, the waterways and islands of the Delta are home to some of the most breath-taking and awe-inspiring scenery in all of Africa- both in landscapes as well as wildlife viewing opportunities. Having seen numerous documentaries showcasing the Delta, I knew from the very beginning of planning my trip that this was one part of Africa I was not missing out on, no matter what, so when the time came to sign up for the trip, my name was at the top of the list.

Shortly after we pulled into the dusty town of Maun, we gathered around for a meeting that would outline the next 3 days in the Delta. Our ‘Delta Guide’ gave us the run-down of the trip- a long makoro (Traditional dugout canoe) ride out into the Delta, bush camping for 2 nights, game walks and other makoro cruises during the days, a visit to a swimming hole or two, and the amazing experience of camping out under the stars in the Okavango Delta. Needless to say, by the end of the meeting, we were ready to head out right away. We packed our smaller day-packs and food for the trip, and then tried to find ways to while away the time until our departure the next morning.

We were up early the next morning to board the trucks for the transfer from the campsite to the Delta’s edge. It was a cool morning, and the trucks were open-air, so we had long-sleeves and wind-breakers on to keep us warm until the sun rose a bit higher. It was an hour’s drive through rural farmland from Maun out to the Delta put-in, and we noticed the terrain continually getting greener and greener the closer we got to our destination. Finally, we pulled to a stop on the side of what seemed to be a large lagoon.

 

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We all hopped off the truck and unloaded our gear while trying to stay out of the way of the many locals that were bustling around getting things prepared for the trip- I was amazed at how many people were involved. There were several makoros lined up along the water’s edge, and all of the locals were busy loading them with water and food, firewood and cooking equipment. We were told where to place our belongings, and shortly those were loaded into the makoros as well. We were introduced to the local guides that would be navigating us through the innumerable waterways of the delta and out to our camp sites. Finally, we gingerly settled into our makoros- 2 per boat, plus a guide- bags, sun cream, snack sacks, and water positioned around us as comfortably as possible. We had been told that it was going to be about a 3 hour trip out into the delta, and that we weren’t going to be able to move around very much in the narrow and seemingly all-too-unstable canoes. Sun hat on and SPF 50 applied, we pushed off, and our adventure was underway.

The Okavango Delta is an amazing place- cool clear waters flowing through tall grasses, islands spotted with palm and acacia trees, and abundant wildlife throughout. It is the world’s largest inland delta, the result of the seasonal flooding of the Okavango River system emptying itself into the basin of the Kalahari Desert. Because of the surrounding desert, the delta is an oasis for local plant and animal life, and is one of the most unique ecosystems in the world. Prides of lions patrol the islands, in search of herds of zebra, wildebeest, and water buffalo. Giraffe and elephants keep watch for predators like leopards and cheetahs, while shy rhinos and the ever-elusive wild dogs keep a low profile. Nile crocodiles and hippopotamus make their homes in the waterways, while fish eagles and cranes soar overhead in search of food. The water supply supports an incredible amount of life, and the residents of the delta have it pretty easy compared to their relatives in other, drier parts of the African wilderness.

 

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Our trip into the Delta was great- once we got the delicate balance of riding in the unstable makoro down. As our guide poled us along, I was surprised to see that most of the delta is no more than shoulder deep- the water was so clear, we could see the bottom of the narrow canals we were passing through, and our guide had no problem using the long pole to keep up slowly moving along. It started to get hot, and with no shade to be had, I felt like any exposed skin was getting roasted, regardless of how much sun cream I lathered on them. I noticed the locals simply dipping their cups into the water as we glided along, pouring some waster on their head and then drinking the rest, straight from the delta. Apparently, the water was safe to drink- for the locals, at least- but I decided it was still a good idea to drink bottled water. Better safe than sorry.

We continued along in this way for a long time- slowly gliding along through narrow pathways in a seemingly unending prairie of marsh grass. The gentle splash of our guide’s pole in the water, the rhythmic speeding up and slowing down of the makoro, the gentle breeze blowing across the open boat- I dozed off for awhile, despite my back and legs slowly growing numb from being in the same position for so long. Finally, our guide settled the nose of our makoro into the mud at the side of a small island, and we had arrived at our campsite. I slowly stood up, gingerly straightening out and stepping out of the front of the canoe and onto dry land. After a quick stretch, we unloaded all the gear- tents, sleeping bags and mats, pots and pans, containers full of food and utensils, several bottles of water, firewood, and last but not least- a shovel to dig our ‘bush toilet’- all that packed into in our three little makoros. It was amazing.

 

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First, we set to the task of pitching our tents and organizing our campsite. We all noticed  the piles of dried elephant droppings all around the place, and the guides were quick to tell us that it wasn’t uncommon for elephants to visit campsites at night in search of food that had been left out. We all made a mental note to make sure EVERYTHING was put away in the kitchen tent before we went to bed at night. I mean, I love elephants and everything, but I don’t really want them stomping around my tent in the middle of the night- it had happened before, and I found it to be just a bit disconcerting…  After we got our tents set up, the fire pit dug, and the ‘toilet’ sorted, it was time to set out on our first game walk in the delta.

 

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Now, I had been on game walks before, and called myself crazy afterwards for putting myself in such a precarious position. A ‘game walk’ is exactly what it sounds like- a walk through the wild in search of game. Who knows what you may encounter? In Nepal, it had been stealthy tigers and grazing rhinos. In the Okavango Delta, there were any number of dangerous animals we could come across- prowling lions, leopards and cheetahs; hyenas and crocodiles lying in wait; herds of edgy water buffalo and overprotective hippos scattered about. Throw in a few thousand elephants and some wary rhinos, and the potential dangers were everywhere. So, knowing all of this was out there waiting, and we wanted to just walk right into it, on foot, with no protection- no vehicle, no guns, nothing at all with which to stop a charging lioness or an upset buffalo.  Smart? Probably not… But, that’s just part of it- all part of the experience, so to speak…

 

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Anyway, our bush walks turned out to be pretty uneventful- we didn’t encounter anything dangerous, and the only wildlife we saw was a herd of zebra, and even then at a pretty good distance away. We did come across several skeletons- giraffe, hippo, buffalo, etc.- but that was the only evidence we saw of any predators possibly having been in the area. Still, it was amazing to be out and walking around the islands of the delta- it was beautiful. Stands of trees rising tall over golden grasses, dusty game trails meandering across the sun-baked fields, rocky outcroppings spotted here and there providing a great vantage over the surrounding area. It was a really cool walk, despite the lack of ‘action’.

 

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The rest of our time in the delta went much the same- we went on a couple more walks, never encountering anything too exciting. We did come across a lone bull elephant on one of our twilight makoro cruises. He turned and studied us, gave a great bellow, and then rumbled away, disappearing into the underbrush. We found a swimming hole the second afternoon, and each had a go at poling the makoros around. It quickly became obvious that one had to have grown up in the delta to be able to navigate it in the traditional boats, and we all had a laugh as we toppled over the side and into the water.  We saw some AMAZING sunsets over the delta, enjoying the peace and tranquility of being in the middle of the Botswana wilderness with nothing around to spoil it. At night, were were serenaded by the trumpeting of elephants and the calls of night hawks while sitting around the fire, roasting marshmallows and gazing up at the stars. Sure, we were ‘roughing it’, but to be honest, it was so peaceful that we hardly noticed that we hadn’t showered in 3 days, or that we had to cover the ‘toilet’ with fresh dirt after each use. Despite the lack of wildlife-related ‘excitement’ on our trip into the delta, when the time came to pack up the tents and load the makoros for the trip back to civilization, I wished we had more time to enjoy it.

 

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If you’d like to learn more about how to travel through Botswana, click here.

For more on the Backpack Professor’s adventures in Botswana, click here.

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A Bird’s Eye View of the Okavango Delta

August 11, 2012 — Leave a comment

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After spending three days in the natural wonder that is Botswana’s Okavango Delta, we had the chance to take a scenic flight over the delta for a unique view of the landscape impossible to imagine from ground level. We were all excited about getting a ‘bird’s eye view’ of things to help us get some perspective on how big the area actually is. We headed out to the local airstrip, and after switching planes due to some sort of mechanical failure (Always reassuring…), we were speeding down the runway and climbing skyward, all 7 of us packed into the tiny propeller plane.

 

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Our pilot had introduced himself with a heavy Namibian accent, and had given us a brief run-through on the path he was going to take while flying over the delta. It was only supposed to be a 30 minute flight, so we would still only get to see a small portion of the delta, but he said we would be flying over the island where we had camped the previous 2 nights, and that we should be able to see the loading area where we had originally set out into the delta in the makoro canoes.

 

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Once in the air, we were flying over the dry and dusty farmland that sits around the borders of the delta, irrigation ditches easily made out from our low altitude. Before long, we were over the delta itself, and it became instantly clear as to why we hadn’t had much luck as far as wildlife viewing was concerned- it was HUGE. It spread out before us as far as the eye could see- large and small islands surrounded by a seemingly unending marshland, large lakes and smaller ponds spotted here and there throughout.  It reminded me of what it must be like to look at the earth from space- all that blue water, with a few masses of green, brown, and yellow dispersed throughout. Wide rivers made their way through the delta, with smaller streams and waterways splitting off like little capillaries, spreading the flood waters throughout. We could pick out game trails meandering through the grasslands and the shallow waterways- herds of elephant or buffalo having trampled the ground and grasses as they moved through the delta. It was incredible- an amazing perspective on this lush oasis in the middle of the Kalahari Desert.

 

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As we flew along, our pilot suddenly pointed out the window towards the ground, shouting back into the cabin, trying to be heard over the drone of the engine. “BUFFALO!” he shouted, and we all strained our necks to the windows, trying to pick out what he was pointing at. We couldn’t have been more than 3 or 4 thousand feet off the ground, and looking out the window, were able to make out the black dots set against the green background- a HUGE herd of water buffalo, grazing and resting in a meadow beside a large lake. There must have been hundreds of them… A few seconds later- “ELEPHANT!”, as the pilot banked the plane to circle around a family of 20-30 elephants making their way across one of the innumerable islands. Again, incredible. We slowly realized that all these black spots clustered together on the ground were actually animals, and they were EVERYWHERE. On one hand, it made me wonder at how we DIDN’T come across more wildlife while on our walks in the delta, but also made me realize just how expansive the area was, and, as it always is with wildlife, it was just a matter of being in the right place at the right time.

 

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As we continued our flight, we saw many more buffalo and elephants- the easiest to pick out due to their individual size as well as the fact that they tend to travel in herds. We also saw a few giraffe, and some smaller antelope as well. I continued to marvel at the amount of water- unbelievable for being in the middle of a desert… Eventually, we made the turn home and headed back to the airport, cameras full of images taken during the flight. It was an incredible experience, and provided a great perspective on the wonder that is the Okavango Delta.

 

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If you’d like to learn more about how to travel through Botswana, click here.

For more on the Backpack Prof’s travels through Botswana, click here.

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